After an approximately twenty minutes boda boda ride from the tranquil fishing village of Shimoni skirting my way through the snaky murram roads, I arrive at Fikirini village in Tswaka. A village of the hidden gem of the Three Sisters Giant Caves, the second largest cave system in East Africa.

I meet my guide Ali Toya who takes me through my odyssey at the magnificent caves complex comprising of the Mdenyenye, Pangani and Kisimani caves. The environment here is cool and secure, and the lovely vegetation makes the area a unique haven for photograph lovers. 

Wooden staircase leading into the Mdenyenye cave in Fikirini.

We first descend into the largest of the three caves, the Mdenyenye Cave using a wooden staircase well crafted by the locals. Toya takes his moment to first explain the meaning of the word ‘Mdenyenye’ to me.

“Mdenyenye is a word used by the Tswaka community to mean the act of ascending or descending using a rope or a hanging root. This is the largest coral cave in Kenya.” He elaborates.

As we get down into the caves we are welcomed by thousands of bats flocking around after sensing our presence in their domain. A unique encounter indeed as at some angles you have to duck to avoid the bats that were swooping and darting around the cave chambers. The atmosphere down here is thick and humid as we walk inwards on the soft cave floor covered with bats’ poo.

“Don’t be afraid. Some bats can even cling on your body.” Toya explains after seeing me getting petrified.

It is a unique adventure not for the faint heartened! But how was this hidden treasure used by the local Tswaka community in the past?

According to my guide, during the times of slave trade, the local community used to hide inside the Mdenyenye cave to evade those who came to their village looking for slaves. Today this cave is home to seven bat species including the Egyptian fruit bats, common bent-wing bats, long-fingered bat, tomb bats and the angle-faced bat. More than 40,000 bats live inside these caves a number that is believed to be the highest in Africa.

Though not well established, the Three Sisters Caves are a potential attraction of Kwale County. Most of the people who visit these caves are either tourists or researchers and scientists who come here to study bats, the stalactites and stalagmites formation in the caves or even the plant life in and around the caves. Today these caves are used as a spiritual site (Kaya) of the local Tswaka community.

While at the Fikirini caves site one can also have an unforgettable memory of viewing various bird species and also tour the Fikirini village for a taste of the natural refreshing coconut drink known as the madafu as you are entertained by traditional Digo dancers.

Getting to Fikirini:

Fikirini is located at the south eastern part of Kwale County near the fishing village of Shimoni, an approximately 45 minutes drive from the Beach resort of Diani. You can get to this place using a cab or use a public means of transport to Mwambao along Shimoni road and hire a boda boda to Fikirini village.

Have you ever visited the Three Sisters Caves of Fikirini? Drop us a comment on how your experience was like.

Kwale County Governor Salim Mvurya has called upon parents to ensure their children are taken to school. Addressing residents of Samburu/Chengoni ward on Saturday when issuing bursary cheques to students of that ward learning in different secondary schools, Governor Mvurya reminded that education is the only key to success. He reiterated that the County Government of Kwale has invested much in education as a way of growing a society of professionals.  

Governor Mvurya (R) with KLB Board Chair Francis Baya (L). / Photo: Ali Kipapuro.

At the same time Governor Mvurya called upon Kwale County residents to embrace peace and avoid political side shows, terming the recent self swearing in of opposition leader Raila Odinga as the Peoples’ President unconstitutional.

"There is only one duly elected President in Kenya and that is Uhuru Kenyatta. Therefore do not let anyone play around with your minds.” He stated.

Mvurya also urged all elected leaders from the County to shun divisive politics, and join hands in serving the people of Kwale.

“It is only through unity and working together that our development agenda shall be fulfilled. That is how we will move forward as a County." He explained.

On her part, Deputy Governor Fatima Achani stated that through the able leadership of Governor, Kwale County has realized most of its developmental agendas. Achani also asked Kwale residents to support Governor Mvurya to a higher national position after he finishes his second term as the Kwale Governor in 2022.

"Mvurya’s track record is open. In the education sector, it is only Kwale County among the 47 Counties in Kenya that has a successful bursary program with National School students receiving a 100 per cent scholarship." She pointed out.

Achani too urged parents in Kwale County to take all their children to school irrespective of their gender, reminding that education is the best inheritance for generation.

The two leaders were accompanied by several senior officials from the County Government and administration officer form the National Government.

In 2013 when they were elected for their first term in office under the devolved system of government, Governor Mvurya and his Deputy Fatuma Achani came up with the ‘Elimu Ni Sasa’ initiative, a program that has highly motivated the growth of education standards in Kwale County. Through this program the County Government of Kwale has facilitated the construction of state of the art Early Childhood Development Education Centers in various parts of the county, and also set aside a bursary fund that sponsors Kwale County students learning in various institutions across the country and also outside Kenya.

Kwale County Executive Committee Member for Education Mangale Munga Chiforomodo has assured Madibwani residents in Waa/Ng’ombeni ward that the County Government has already set aside funds to build a modern Early Childhood Development Education Center at the area.

Addressing villagers at Madibwani Primary School Chiforomodo reiterated that education is key to success and that the County Government of Kwale will ensure all areas in the County have modern infrastructure in their learning institutions.  

“I urge all parents to take their children to school regardless of their gender. I also want to assure you that the contractor is ready and the project of Madibwani Early Childhood Development Education Center will commence before the 3^rd of March this year.’’ He said. 

Kwale CEC Member Mangale Chiforomodo addressing Madibwani residents. / Photo: Neema Mwachome.

The County Executive Committee Member also urged the youth of Madibwani to make use of available Youth Polytechnics to learn various skills, saying that the County Government through the Education Department will pay twelve thousand shillings annually for to all students in polytechnics.

‘’Let us take our children to these polytechnics.  I have already received 36 million shillings for that program so no one should be left out.’’ Said the County Executive Committee Member.

Madibwani Primary School which started back in 2012 has only three teachers employed by the Teachers Service Commission of Kenya, with rest being PTA teachers. It has 2 classrooms which were funded by Matuga National Constituency Development Fund (CDF).

Chiforomodo has also promised to combine effort with the area Member of Parliament Kassim Sawa Tandaza and Waa/Ng’ombeni Member of County Assembly Halfan Mwasera to ensure that Mabidwani Primary School infrastructure is improved.

Madibwani residents listening to CEC Member Mangale Chiforomodo. / Photo: Neema Mwachome.

Other County officials present at the meeting were Director for Early Childhood Development Education Abdallah Bilashaka and Matuga Sub County Administator Nimusimu Mwasina.

Source: Neema Mwachome-GPS

With reports showing that an estimated 23% of girls in Kenya get married before reaching the age of 18, efforts have been put up to protect the basic rights of the girl child. In Kwale County various stakeholders have come together in a bid to ensure that cases of early child marriages and early pregnancies are eradicated, and at the same time ensure that school drop out rates among the girls are decreased. Such cases are reportedly rampant in the rural areas where some families see the girl child as either a burden or at times a source of wealth. Many rural communities try to justify these malpractices by use of cultural or religious arguments. 

Kwale CEC Member for Education Mangale Chiforomodo at Naserian village. / Photo: Susan Nyamawi.

In a recent Lunga Lunga Sub County Education Stakeholders Forum held at Naserian village in Mwereni ward, officials from the County Government of Kwale their counterparts from the National Government and officers from various Non Governmental Organizations including Kwale Welfare and Education Association, Muslims For Human Rights (MUHURI) and Haki Yetu emphasized on the importance of education especially to the girl child in the society.

Addressing community members who attended this forum, Kwale County Executive Committee Member for Education Mangale Munga Chiforomodo asked the residents of Naserian village and Mwereni ward to take their children to school.

“It is unfortunate that Mwereni ward and particularly Naserian village has for long been listed as the area with the highest cases of early child marriages and early pregnancies.” He said.

Chiforomodo reiterated that education is a basic right to all children in Kenya, and that the County Government of Kwale will ensure every child in the County goes to school. He also cautioned that parents who force their girls to get married at an early aged will be held responsible for such offences.

“I urge all parents and the community at large to take responsibility and report the culprits who are behind the cases of early pregnancies or early child marriages which hinder our girls education.” He added.

At the same time the CEC member challenged responsible officials from both the county and national governments to take stern legal action against those interfering with girl child education. 

Naserian villagers following speeches at the sensitization forum. / Photo: Susan Nyamawi.

On his part, Lunga Lunga Sub County Director of Education Mr Roba explained that some parents use transfers to hide cases of child marriages or pregnancies. He however called upon school heads to regulate transfers of students as a way to eradicate those cases.

“Any parent who wants a transfer for his child should contact my office. Parents should also give equal rights to education to all their children regardless of their gender. Those who do not want to take their children to school will face the law.” He explained.

Mr Roba also reminded stakeholders present at the forum that the Basic Education Act should be adhered to.

Speaking at the same venue Lunga Lunga OCS Mr Richard Kerario challenged parents to report all cases of early pregnancies rather than solving them at community levels. “As police we take child offences seriously and we shall punish everyone found guilty of doing such offenses.” He warned.

Kwale Welfare and Education Association (KWEA) Chief Executive Officer Ms Sabina Saiti reminded Naserian villagers that educating the girl child is empowering the community. “All children have equal rights to education.” She added.

Ms Rehema Mwangeka from Naserian village in Mwereni ward Lunga Lunga. Photo: Susan Nyamawi.

On her part, Ms Rehema Mwangeka who is a volunteer girl child rights activist from Naserian village saidi that many mother want their daughters to learn but fathers tend to be the challenge or obstacle.

"Husband are the decision makers in our families and sometimes mothers are afraid to go against any of their decisions of marrying their daughters to the people they choose for them." She said.

However Ms Rehema urged the stakeholders present at the forum to invest more on sensitization campaigns in rural areas saying that in the recent past there has been a positive change.

Set in a cool and refreshing environment in the Shimba Hills Ecosystem, the Shifoga Eco Lodge offers a perfect feel of nature within the limits of Kwale. This Eco Lodge is located just about 200 meters from Kwale main town towards the Shimba Hills National Reserve which is home to the only sable antelope population in Kenya. On arriving at Shifoga Eco Lodge, one gets a unique introduction to wild from the sounds of singing birds and chatters of excited colobous and sykes monkeys jumping from one tree to another. This secret getaway features two self contained bandas with reliable water and power supplies. An overnight stay at Shifoga Eco Lodge is exceptionally a unique experience as one interacts with wildlife.

Photo: Shifoga 

While at this Eco Lodge there is never a boring moment. During the day, Shifoga guides will take you out for a walk a nature trail inside the Coastal Rainforest just outside Shimba Hills National Reserve. Here you get a chance to come close to the endangered black and white colobous monkeys, sykes monkeys, baboons and various birds and reptile species. Also in the nature trail walk which normally takes around 45 minutes, a visitor learns about different indigenous tree species.  

Shifoga Nature Trail walk. / Photo: Ali Kipapuro.

Amidst the forest is also a set up of a sample traditional Digo homestead (mudzi). As you enter the compound (muhala) at this sample Digo community homestead the first thing you see is a small structure decorated with red, black and white pieces of clothes. Traditionally the Digos called it the fingo which they believed that it offered family member protection from evil spirits. Here one also gets a detailed explanation on various types of traditional houses built by the Digo community in past, and places within their compounds where they used to pray for spiritual assistance from their ancestors. If you are lucky enough you will be entertained by traditional music from the Digo community while at this point in the forest. Later you are taken to a place called ‘ndala’ where the Kaya elders used to pray and offer sacrifices during times of calamities.

Mwakutunza from Shifoga explains about Digo traditions during the nature trail walk. / Photo: Ali Kipapuro.

Inside the Shifoga Nature Trail is a unique picnic site and also several camping grounds where visitors can opt to put up their tents for adventurous nights. It is in this forest also where Shifoga members have their butterfly farm, a livelihood project initiated to encourage Kwale community to conserve environment.

Shifoga picnic site inside the nature trail. / Photo Ali Kipapuro.

Apart from the Nature Trail, Shifoga Eco Lodge organizes village tours for visitors to mingle with local community member in various villages of Kwale where they learn about the lifestyle of the Digo and Duruma communities, and at times have a taste of traditional delicacies from the two communities. Shifoga also has day-long walking safari of about 25 kilometers where their visitors are treated to a unique odyssey in and around the Shimba Hills ecosystem. These tours normally start at their offices through Kwale town to Golini Resort where one takes refreshments and a chance to have an expansive view from the Golini cliff, and later proceed to Chitsanze waterfalls overlooking the magnificent Mwaluganje valley and back to Golini cliff for a sun-downer as you catch a far glimpse of the African Bush Elephants of the Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary.  

The Shofoga Eco Lodge is owned by the Shimba Hills Forest Guides Association (SHIFOGA), a group formed in 2004. Below are their rates.

Tour Guiding - Shimba Hills Reserve

Non - Residents & Residents:                       Ksh. 1,500/= per group

Citizens:                                                             Ksh. 1,000/= per group

Institutions:                                                      Ksh. 2,000/= per group

Tour Guiding - NATURE TRAIL:

Non - Residents & Residents:                       Ksh. 500/= per person

Citizens:                                                             Ksh. 100/= per person

Tour Guiding - VILLAGE TOURS:

Non - Residents & Residents:                       Ksh. 500/= per

Citizens:                                                             Ksh. 200/= per person

Institutions:                                                      Ksh 2,000/= per group

Have you ever visited Shifoga Eco Lodge? You can drop us a comment below on how your experience was like.

Born and raised in Dokata village of MacKinnon Road ward, 52 years old Mwajoto Mwagawari is today a happy man thanks to the water project opened by the County Government of Kwale in their area back in 2017. To him this project is a relief to hundreds of Dokata residents who for years had to walk long distances in search of water. Mwajoto narrates how Dokata mothers used to trek to as far as eight kilometers to fetch water at Mgalani and sometimes at MacKinnon Road areas. Dokata boarders Tsavo East National Park and here wild animals such as elephants, lions and buffaloes frequently cross to the village, which makes this area dangerous at times.

Mwajoto Mwagawari explaining about the water project.

“Our mothers spent much of their time fetching water. They used to wake up as early as 5 o’clock in the morning and they could return home at around 9 o'clock exhausted, and still had other cores to do after returning.” He explains.

According to him, some women walked these tiresome distances carrying their babies on their backs. Apart from that dawn task, some Dokata mothers used to return to Mgalani in the afternoon depending on water consumption needs by their family members.

At Mgalani area, people got water from the Kenya Railway taps that were later closed forcing Dokata residents to move to MacKinnon Road. However since the inception of the Melikubwa-Dokata water project by the County Government of Kwale, Dokata villagers are now getting relief as many get water from a comfortably near walking distance as compared to the past. 

Girls at the Dokata water Kiosk.

And to elderly Mama Dzame Rumba, the county water project is such a relief to Dokata villagers. Mama Dzame says that in the past she personally walked the distances to Mgalanai, MacKinnon Road and sometimes to the furthest Kikobeni village where they fetched water. However she explains that the water at Kikobeni wasn’t that safe for domestic uses as it was fetched from open ditches which they later came to realize that they were used as toilets for Mau Mau prisoners during the colonial periods.

“I thank the County Government of Kwale for the water project. We can now comfortably relax and fetch water just a few meters from our homesteads. We are no longer walking those distances we used to walk in the past.” She says. 

“We sometimes used to hide or run away from elephants and buffaloes we encountered on our way to Mgalani, MacKinnon or Kikobe areas.'' Adds the elderly woman.

Some residents are also using this water project to do irrigation farming in their homesteads. A good example is Mr Lennox Mwagawari who grows water melons and vegetables such as the amaranthus famously known as ‘mchicha’ in Swahili.

Watermelon from Lennox's farm in Dokata village.